"I'm not dancing for the horses, Vikram," I declared, with as much dignity and sincerity as I could pack into the bizarre string of words.
"Sure you will! You get down with me now, and dance a little Indian magic. The horses have to _see that cool, Indian motherfucker you got inside your tight, white exterior, man. I swear, the horses will love you, and you'll ride like Clint fuckin' Eastwood!"
"I don't want to ride like Clint fuckin' Eastwood."
"Yes, you do!" he laughed. "Everybody does."
"No, I'm not doing it."
"Come on."
"No way." He climbed down, and began to prise my boots from the stirrups.
Exasperated, I climbed down and stood next to him, facing the two horses.
"Like this!" Vikram said, shaking his hips and stepping out in a movie dance routine. He began to sing, clapping his hands in time. "Come on, yaar! Put some India into it, man. Don't go all fuckin' European on me."
There are three things that no Indian man can resist: a beautiful face, a beautiful song, and an invitation to dance. I was Indian enough, in my crazy white way, to dance with Vikram, even if it was simply that I couldn't bear to see him dance alone. Shaking my head, and laughing despite myself, I joined in his routine. He guided me through the dance, adding new steps until we had the turns and walks and gestures in perfect time together.
The horses watched us with that peculiarly equine mix of white eyed timorousness and snorting condescension. Still, we danced and sang to them in that grassy wilderness of rolling hills, under a blue sky as dry as the smoke from a campfire in the desert.
And when the dance was over, Vikram spoke to my horse in Hindi, letting it snuffle at his black hat. He passed the hat to me then, and told me to wear it. I slipped it over my head and we climbed into the saddles.
Damn if it didn't work. The horses cantered off, and gently broke into a gallop. For the first and only time in my life, I almost looked like a horseman. I knew the elation, for a glorious quarter hour, of fearless synergy with the great-hearted animal.
Closely following Vikram's lead, I flew at steep inclines and conquered them to plummet over the summit, and hurtle downward into curving loops of wind and scattered shrubs. We stretched out over flatter grasslands in effortless, lunging snatches at the ground, and then Nazeer joined us with his riders at the gallop.
For a little while, for a moment, we were as wild-willed and free as the horses could teach us to be.
I was still laughing about it and chattering to Nazeer when we climbed the stairs and entered the house on the beach two hours later. I walked my excited smile through the door and saw Karla standing by the long feature-wall window and staring out at the sea. Nazeer greeted her with gruff fondness. A tiny bright smile rushed from his brow to his chin, trying to hide behind his scowl. He seized a litre bottle of water, a box of matches, and a few sheets of newspaper from the kitchen, and left the house. "He's leaving us alone," she said.
"I know. He'll make a fire, down on the beach. He does that sometimes."
I walked to her, and kissed her. It was a brief kiss, almost shy, but all the love in my heart was in it. When our lips parted, we held one another close, both of us looking at the sea. After a while we saw Nazeer, down at the beach, collecting driftwood and dry scraps for a fire. He wedged the balled up newspaper between the twigs and sticks, lit the fire, and sat down beside it, facing the sea. He wasn't cold. There was a warm breeze leaning in on a hot night. He lit the fire to show us, as night rode the waves across the setting sun, that he was still there, on the beach; that we were still alone.
"I like Nazeer," she said, her head against my throat and chest.
"He's very kind and good-hearted."
That was true. I knew that. I'd discovered it, at last, the hard way. But how had she come to know it from such a little acquaintance of him? One of the worst of my many failings, in those exile years, was my blindness to the good in people: I never knew how much goodness there was in a man or a woman until I owed them more than I could repay. People like Karla saw goodness with a glance, while I stared, and stared, and too often saw nothing past the scowl or bittering eye.
